"An eclectic blend of cuisines -- South American, Portuguese/Spanish and Italian -- all succeed at Roberto's an intriguing restaurant in an unlikely location.

Don't be put off by the buildings proximity to an industrial park. Draped in white lights, it stands as an oasis among the companies around it.

Chef Roberto Munoz is from Argentina; his wife, Annette Masella Munoz, is a Bergen County native of Italian descent. Their heritages are mirrored in the voluminous menu, which also includes such Portuguese/Spanish standards as mussels in green sauce, and paella.

"Here, we diversify. It gives people more options," says Annette, who grew up in the business, (her father owned La Fenestra restaurant in Rochelle Park). "Having a little of everything...makes it more fun."

Until recently, the self-taught Roberto trained at New York's Le Cirque, where he would work from 6 a.m. to 2 P.M. every Saturday, then head for Roberto's to begin a full day of cooking there.

He has plenty to keep him busy in Kenilworth. There are 16 appetizers and scores of entrees in a broad price range; most are a good value, and almost all offer large portions.

Take the fried calamari for example. The sheer volume of this starter is awesome. The crunchy circles of squid are heaped in a giant bowl and served with a dish of sweet, medium or "memorable" hot tomato sauce.

The appetizer of cold shrimp and salsa piled on rounds of thin-sliced, crisp Spanish potatoes, had a wonderful piquancy that would have been even better with red, ripe summer tomatoes rather than the pale specimens we encountered....

There was no such problem with the roasted peppers teamed with milky homemade mozzarella. The peppers were a beautiful shade of crimson and the dish was dressed with balsamic vinegar, olive oil and garlic.

The latter is a favorite ingredient at Roberto's, but it is the star in the purple chicken entree. The chicken, sauteed with garlic cloves, is doused with Burgundy, (hence the name) and has a mild sweetness. The proprietors suggest squeezing the garlic out of its skin and spreading it on the chicken for the full effect.

Those looking for something tamer should try the garlic and lemon-marinated snapper in parchment, cooked with black olives and sundried tomatoes. I was disappointed that the parchment was removed before the fish came to our table; I enjoy watching the steam rise from the paper as it is sliced open. This way of cooking keeps the fish extremely moist and blends the ingredients into a savory swirl of flavors.

Veal Mariela, with its sauteed spinach, Burgundy cream sauce, sundried tomato and shrimp salsa, was a little too much. All the ingredients smothered the taste of the veal scallopine.

I feared the same would be the case with the filet mignon, Roberto, made with prosciutto, bacon, mozzarella, red wine, mushrooms and artichoke hearts. These components cooperated with each other, however, and never concealed the virtues of the enormous hunk of meat.

The entrees came with saffron rice and a generous amount of perfectly cooked broccoli. Salads were also included, but I didn't have much use for the bland blend of Romaine and iceberg lettuce with a wan tomato wedge, scarcely brightened by the sprightly balsamic vinaigrette.

The wine list is a treasure trove of bargains. The Chilean Concha y Toro merlot is a terrific value, while the Mouton Cadet Bourdeaux blanc is among the host of white wine choices available for less than $20 a bottle. Wines by the glass run $5 and $6.

Only a few of the desserts are produced in-house. I had to try the strawberries flambe, concocted tableside with Grand Marnier and creme de banana. I loved watching the flames leap toward the ceiling, stopping just short of disaster. Served with vanilla ice cream, the taste of the liqueurs enhanced the strawberries in an intoxicating blend.

Tiramisu, made at the restaurant, was a fluffy, light version of this creamy classic that slid down with the ease of jello. Desserts we tried that were brought in from outside vendors were good, especially a flavorful almond raspberry tart.

Our server recited the specials but -- as is so often the case -- did not give the prices. Whether there are only a few specials or a blackboard's worth, restaurants should type them up and hand them out, offering diners an opportunity to peruse what's available and at what price without having to repeatedly ask the waiter.

Though our server was quite busy, she got the job done, acknowledging us when we beckoned and coming over as soon as she could. However, the employees bringing the food to our table were always uncertain of who got what dish. It's not a major flaw in the service, but it did detract from the flow of the conversation when we had to direct the busboys...

Roberto's is a bustling place with a lot to offer in a lively atmosphere. The value and variety are excellent, making up for the few shortcomings in food and service that we experienced."