295 Kinderkamack Road
Fax: (201) 358-1855
Rated "Excellent" by The Bergen Record
- July 16, 1999 -
"Takeout on a plate. That's what you get at so many of the area's Chinese restaurants. Sure, it gives you a break from cooking and cleaning up, but it's not really a special dining-out experience.
Golden Dynasty is a special dining-out experience.
From the moment I spotted the charming landscaped garden, I had a good feeling about Golden Dynasty. The big tank of ornamental carp in the entry foyer increased the positive vibe. But it was the complimentary nibblers of crunchy, honeyed cashews that sealed the deal: I really like this restaurant's style.
Special touches abound. Brilliantly colored carved vegetable flowers adorn every plate. Candles illuminate the tables. Tireless staff decked out in crisp black and white circle constantly with lemon-spiked ice water.
I particularly enjoyed the Sichuan dumplings in hot sauce. Ten small beggar's purses, tender and light, contained a surprisingly mild but flavorful ground meat filling. A superb sauce tasted of sesame, soy, and peanut, with an occasional jolt of hot pepper.
If your appetite is large, kick off the meal with the pupu platter. Golden Dynasty's version is practically a meal in itself, overflowing with fresh, deep-fried chicken fingers; garlicky marinated beef; jumbo, batter-dipped fantail shrimp; flaky, oversized spring rolls; meaty spare ribs; and crisp, plump shrimp toast. Every item was so tasty, we ate every bite ... and then could barely make a dent in our entrees.
But that's OK; they made for a mighty fine lunch the next day.
Who can resist a dish named Amazing Chicken? It was the sauce that helped it live up to its billing, a thick, russet-colored, fiery blend that gave a lively personality to the plate of sliced, white-meat chicken, snow peas, water chestnuts, red peppers, mushrooms, and baby corn.
Equally intriguing was a dish called Gemini. Four substantial beef fillets, kissed with sweet orange sauce, sat alongside a mound of fresh green beans lightly sauteed with garlic. A tableside preparation involved wrapping two of the tender fillets with some beans in delicate Chinese crepes. It was lovely, but I had to wonder: Why not all four?
An unusual sauce was once again an eye-opener in crispy prawns with walnuts. I order this dish frequently in Chinese restaurants; typically, the deep-fried shrimp are coated with a sweet glaze. But at Golden Dynasty, they were topped with a spicy red sauce, thick enough to stand tall rather than flow onto the plate. The sauce was a thrilling contrast to the crunchy, honeyed walnuts and the supple, meaty shrimp.
Another seafood success was shrimp and scallops in garlic sauce. Here, the large scallops were the standout -- so incredibly tender they nearly melted on the tongue. Their natural sweetness was nicely offset by the spicy garlic sauce. Crisp water chestnuts, red peppers, and celery provided textural contrast.
Golden Dynasty wisely uses elegant raised platforms for its family-style entree presentations, allowing them to rise above the tabletops crowded with glasses, silverware, plates, cashews, crunchy noodles, dipping sauces, teapots, and soy sauce in charming ceramic pitchers.
The customers seem very happy at Golden Dynasty. On each of our visits, there were several large tables with a celebratory air. The laughter of well-behaved children mixed with animated adult conversations and soft Chinese music made for a pleasantly energizing atmosphere.
At meal's end, fresh orange slices and fortune cookies are accompanied by one final special touch: plastic pouches containing warm, moist towelettes the size of washcloths. It's an appropriate close to such a refreshing dining experience."
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295 Kinderkamack Road
Prices: Appetizers $3.50 to $7.95; entrees $7.25 to $14.95.
Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V.
Days closed: None.
Liquor, wine: Yes.
Facilities for the disabled: No.
Non-smoking area: Yes.
Accommodations for children: Yes.
Atmosphere: Elegant yet casual.
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