"When the original Thais emigrated from China centuries ago, they
took with them some wonderful culinary techniques. But the Thais didn't
stop there, and over the years added to their cuisine the curries and spices
from neighboring India, coriander and cumin from the Mideast traders, and
chilies from the Portuguese, among others.
The results of this mingling can be experienced in a lovely, unassuming
restaurant that moved from New York to Hoboken. Bangkok City has established
a reputation among locals in a city with a large variety of ethnic fare.
We have visited this little gem...Our arrival is met with a warm, friendly
welcome from the genial hostess SiSi Orlandi.
Bangkok City takes its name from the type of Thai cooking it serves which
varies slightly from city to city and from urban to rural regions in Thailand.
The Hoboken chef ran a restaurant in Bangkok before she came to America
18 years ago.
For those who are not familiar with this sweet-sour, hot-mild cuisine, six
elements give Thai food its distinctive characteristics: Coconut, fresh
coriander, chilies, garlic, fish sauce and citrus (including the almost
always present lemon grass and the juice, rind and leaves of the kaffir
lime).
At Bangkok City, these ingredients are used in various combinations to flavor
seafood, beef, pork, duck and chicken. The chef is particularly masterful
at combining fiery chilies or curries with coriander, basil or coconut milk
to tame the fire but bring out the savors.
A dozen appetizers on the menu range from the very delicate Koong-gra-brog
- whole shrimp wrapped in spring rolls, to the very spicy Yum-wun-sen, which
consists of bean-thread noodles salad with shrimps and ground pork.
Steamed mussels in Thai herbs, crispy rice vermicelli with shrimp in Tamarind
sauce, and fried breaded squid are among the other possibilities for good
starters.
The famous Thai specialty - Tom-yum-koong (shrimp soup with lemon grass
and chilies)-is always available here. Other soup selections, similarly
priced, are chicken with coconut milk and galanger, and a vegetable soup
made with a prawn-based broth.
Bangkok City seems to do some wonderful things with shrimp and among our
favorites are Koong-ob-modin - steamed shrimps with bean-thread noodles
and ginger and the much spicier Koong-gra-praw, which consists of sauteed
shrimp with fresh basil and chilies.
Our favorite chicken dish and one we keep ordering on all of our visits
is the lightly-spiced Kai-masaman, which consists of thin slices of chicken
breast in a Moslem curry with peanuts. This delicious Moslem curry with
peanuts also works wonders on sliced beef. More adventurous-and fiery-of
the chicken dishes are those served in either a red or green curry sauce
and one with basil leaves and chilies.
For milder tastes, there are beef and pork dishes with ginger, sweet and
sour sauce and/or broccoli combinations, fully flavored, but with a lighter
touch. Refreshing Thai beer works wonders with all of these dishes.
Strict vegetarians won't have a field day here, but a couple of dishes might
do: Stir-fried bean sprouts with bean curd in a garlic sauce, or sauteed
broccoli in olive oil and garlic. Sauteed rice noodles with shrimp, egg,
bean sprouts and ground peanut, which we sometimes have as an appetizer,
may be suitable to the less strict vegetarians.
Desserts at Bangkok City are minimal and consist of tartufo, various flavored
ice creams, including one with coconut, and Thai custard, made of eggs,
fresh coconut, milk and taro root. Not to worry if you prefer to pass up
on dessert-a perfect evening can come to an end with the deliciously brewed
coffee or tea.
Teas and coffees are also available ice cold-which is the way they are served
in Thailand-and go very nicely on a warm summer day, particularly at lunchtime.
Bangkok City also serves a businessmen's lunch on weekdays. which includes
a daily special, soup and salad".